This will also save me time having to apply so many coats of the finished colour. If my topcoat colour is dark, I’ll use a grey thinned matt emulsion to prime the bare plaster. *Hot tip* your first coat doesn’t need to be white. Avoid those issues by creating a mist coat or sealant for the bare plaster so that. The result will be uneven color, patchiness, and eventual peeling paint. Plaster is very porous and dry, which will suck up standard paint if you directly apply it. This will prevent your paint from peeling further down the line, and create the perfect base for additional coats. The first step in painting fresh plaster is to seal the surface. I thin the paint with water in order for it to penetrate the bare plaster and adhere correctly. If the paint says something like ‘use a primer for bare plaster’ it means that my chosen top coat is not suitable for thinning, and I need to buy an acrylic primer to use as a base. Though the latter is most unlikely for wall paints. If it says clean up in white spirit, I know I can thin it with that spirit. I know I can add water to thin that product. In the decorating industry, ‘Thinning’ means to dilute the paint by adding something to it. I must thin my paint according to the instructions on the tin. This is the most important aspect of painting bare plaster, it’s super easy, and hardly any homeowners do it, and it causes so many problems later down the line. I then wipe over any areas of bare plaster that I have sanded with a damp cloth to remove any loose dust particles and I’m ready paint. I do not want to add ‘being electrocuted’ to my bill. I do not touch or fill anything inside the box. This is the little house that is set back into the wall where all the wires are. I only fill up to the edge of the back box. To do this I make sure the electric is off, I gently scrape away the plaster to reveal the fitting plate, I then unscrew the screws enough to loosen the plate and fill behind it. When this happens, I need to gently excavate them and set them back to their original position. I often see sockets and switches covered in plaster, making them look like they have been sunk deeper into the wall. However more recently, some plasterers feel it is not within their jurisdiction to touch electrical fittings prior to plastering. I would opt to have a competent person to remove all the electrical fittings before the plasterer arrives, if not the plasterer may loosen them off, or tape round them to protect them. With a damp cloth, I clean the plaster off anywhere it should not be, such as on woodwork, or around window frames. Once I have checked over all the bare plaster, and the filler has surpassed its drying time, I whizz round again and sand the filler patches smooth. If there are cracks on the plaster, I don’t fill them until after the first coat of paint. Fillers that are flexible, like the ones that are like a light and fluffy mouse, are not really suitable at this stage. I use a gypsum-based filler on the holes as I want my filled patches to remain a similar texture to the bare plaster itself.
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